Water Heater Buying Guide

Photo By Photograph by Jeff Morgan / Alamy

The U.S. Department of Energy estimates that 12 percent of the average home utility bill—and carbon footprint—comes from heating water. Only heating and cooling the home itself are more energy-intensive.

Shoppers in the market for an efficient water heater can start by looking for an Energy Star label, bestowed by the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to designate energy-efficient products. Other choices depend on your home, pocketbook, and level of eco-commitment.

Some fuels heat water more efficiently than others. Natural gas, burned in the basement, typically has a greener signature than electricity that’s derived from burning coal at a distant power plant.

“But for most people, the fuel that heats and cools their house is going to heat the water,” says Maria Vargas of the EPA. “It’s unlikely in our experience that people are going to switch fuels.”

Fortunately, consumers can make green water heater choices no matter how they get their energy. (See the “Environmental Impact” section for a rundown of green water heater options, from natural gas to the sun.)

Energy Star-Qualified High-Efficiency Gas Storage: These super-efficient storage-tank water heaters cost a bit more than conventional versions but can pay for themselves in less than three years. And from day one they’ll start repaying the planet by using far less energy. The EPA suggests that by replacing all the standard gas storage heaters sold this year with qualified high-efficiency versions, one billion pounds of CO₂ could be kept out of Earth’s atmosphere. That would be like creating 132,000 acres of new forest.

Gas Condensing: To take green gains to an entirely different level, consider a gas condensing water heater. These systems are new to many in the U.S., as they didn’t begin appearing on the market in significant numbers until 2010.

Gas condensing water heaters also feature a large storage tank. But rather than venting hot exhaust gases up the chimney after heating your water once, they capture those gases and put them back to work to reheat water again—cutting total energy use by some 30 percent.

The EPA estimates that if just 5 percent of the new gas water heaters sold each year were of this type, the greenhouse gas emissions saved would be the equivalent of pulling nearly 7,000 cars off U.S. highways.

Electric Heat Pump: The electric heat pump is a cutting-edge water heater technology that can cut your energy use and emissions in half. While these units can be pricey, they can pay for themselves in energy savings in just 3 or 4 years, depending on your water use.

A typical electric water heater, says Lane Burt of the Natural Resources Defense Council, “just runs electricity through a wire, which gets hot and heats up your water. But the heat pump takes heat out of the air and puts it into your water.”

The system works like a refrigerator in reverse, using a liquid refrigerant that helps pull heat from the air and run it through a coil to heat the tank.

The EPA estimates that if every family that purchased an electric water heater this year had chosen a heat pump instead, a staggering 19.6 billion pounds of C02 could have been saved. That’s like taking 1.6 million cars off the road.

Look for:

• Size: If you’re buying a storage-tank water heater (see the “Environmental Impact” section for green tankless options) remember—one size doesn’t fit all. You’ll need a tank big enough to meet your family’s hot water needs, but buying one that’s too large means you’ll burn a lot of energy by continually warming water that you won’t use.

  See this DOE chart for help estimating what size system is the right fit for your home.

• Rebates: Uncle Sam wants you to go green. Environmentally friendly systems may be more expensive, but if you buy now, you can take advantage of government incentives. You may qualify for a tax credit worth 30 percent of a water heater’s price up to $1,500. Solar water heaters pack even more savings power.

  Start searching at http://www.energysavers.gov for federal incentives and at http://www.dsireusa.org/ for a list of state incentives.

  The EPA also maintains a list of special incentives that may be available, like rebates or breaks on sales tax.

By Tanya Snyder

for National Geographic's Green Guide

Source: National Geographic's

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Energy Meter Green Guide

Energy meters and smart home devices help homeowners take control of their energy use with a simple concept—knowledge is power.

A wide and ever-evolving range of these products can deliver real-time data on any home’s energy use. Users get information in instant, easy-to-understand reports that summarize the total amount of electricity your home is using at any given moment—and what it might cost you on next month’s bill.

Studies show that once consumers get a clear look at the energy they waste, and learn where and when savings can be made, they’re usually inspired to trim energy use, and costs, by up to 15 percent.

When shopping for a meter, here are a couple of things to keep in mind:

• Plug and play: Devices like smart plugs are a quick, easy, and relatively inexpensive way to get started. Just grab one and plug it into any outlet, then plug energy-hogging appliances into the device.

  These plugs deliver real-time reports on the energy use of any appliances being powered by that source. They’re a great way to find out just how thirsty your biggest energy users are—and to manage them efficiently. Wifi-controlled smart plugs also offer the ability to turn these appliances on or off from any PC or smart phone. You’ll be able to turn your home air conditioner on while you’re at work, powering it up just before returning home.

• Home energy monitors: Home energy monitors take this concept a step further to create a footprint of your home’s total electricity use, delivered in real-time reports that show just how much juice you’re consuming and what it’s costing you.

  This information is a valuable tool when giving your house, and lifestyle, a green makeover. When you turn on a light, turn off a DVD player, or plug in a cell phone charger, you’ll immediately see the difference—and the expense. Discover just how often your water heater runs and what it costs each time—then set the water heater thermostat five degrees Fahrenheit lower and watch the costs drop.

  A suite of software programs allow you to slice and dice energy monitor data in many different ways.

• Clean water: A rain barrel topped with a fine-mesh screen will keep out insects and debris.

• Smarter homes: On technology’s cutting-edge, an array of home monitoring and control systems, often bundled with other applications like home security or entertainment, allow homeowners to monitor and control some of their home’s biggest energy hogs from anywhere in the world with handheld devices or smart phones.

  These systems install control devices to guide thermostats, lights, HVAC, and other home appliances and systems so that owners can more easily carve out a green lifestyle—with enormous energy savings.

• Keep up with the technology: Buyers should be aware that smart-home and energy-meter technologies are evolving at a staggering pace.

• Commitment: Those hoping to shrink their home energy costs should be realistic about what they need—which is based not only on budget but on how actively involved they plan to be in the process. Whole-home systems come with big price tags and, while they typically offer potentially greater savings, they may not be the best choice for those who aren’t dedicated to using them to their fullest.

• For the long haul: One environmental category in which these devices may fall short is longevity. The dizzying pace of technological advancement may make you think twice about an investment in a system today that may seem antiquated in just a few years.

By Brian Handwerk

Source: National Geographic's Green Guide

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Fertilizer Buying Guide

Photograph by Oldproof/Shutterstock

An organic lawn or garden starts with healthy soil. Natural fertilizers promote the growth of beneficial bacteria, earthworms, and fungi that build soil structure and foster healthy plants.

The best fertilizer for your lawn and garden is homemade compost, made from food scraps, lawn clippings, and fall leaves. If you still need store-bought products, here are a few tips:

• Compost and Soil Improvements: Commercially made compost has high levels of naturally occurring phosphorous and nitrogen that is released gradually and is absorbed more easily by plants. Other soil improvers, such as worm castings, Epsom salts and decomposed organic matter called humates, add nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Watch out for commercial fertilizers, even those labeled "organic," that contain harmful ingredients, such as animal byproducts or sewage sludge. Animal byproducts, such as bone meal or fish meal, may have come from industrial farming operations, and sewage sludge, could be contaminated with diseases or heavy metals.

• "NOFA Approved" and "OMRI Listed": The Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) and the Northeast Organic Farming Association (NOFA), an accredited certifying agency for the USDA National Organic Program, approve products that have been composted according to USDA Organic standards. The only synthetic materials that can be added to NOFA approved compost are those allowed in organic crop production.

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Solar panel

Solar panels use light energy (photons) from the sun to generate electricity through the photovoltaic effect. The structural (load carrying) member of a module can either be the top layer (superstrate) or the back layer (substrate). The majority of modules use wafer-based crystalline silicon cells or thin-film cells based on cadmium telluride or silicon. Crystalline silicon is a commonly used semiconductor.

In order to use the cells in practical applications, they must be:

• connected electrically to one another and to the rest of the system
• protected from mechanical damage during manufacture, transport, installation and use (in particular against hail impact, wind and snow loads). This is especially important for wafer-based silicon cells which are brittle.
• protected from moisture, which corrodes metal contacts and interconnections, and for thin-film cells the transparent conductive oxide layer, thus decreasing performance and lifetime.

Most solar panels are rigid, but semi-flexible ones are available, based on thin-film cells.

Electrical connections are made in series to achieve a desired output voltage and/or in parallel to provide a desired amount of current source capability.

Separate diodes may be needed to avoid reverse currents, in case of partial or total shading, and at night. The p-n junctions of mono-crystalline silicon cells may have adequate reverse current characteristics that these are not necessary. Reverse currents are not only inefficient as they represent power losses, but they can also lead to problematic heating of shaded cells. Solar cells become less efficient at higher temperatures and so it desirable to minimize heat in the panels. Very few modules incorporate any design features to decrease temperature, but installers try to provide good ventilation behind solar panels.^[1]

Some recent solar panel designs include concentrators in which light is focused by lenses or mirrors onto an array of smaller cells. This enables the use of cells with a high cost per unit area (such as gallium arsenide) in a cost-effective way.^{[citation needed]}

Depending on construction, photovoltaic panels can produce electricity from a range of frequencies of light, but usually cannot cover the entire solar range (specifically, ultraviolet, infrared and low or diffused light). Hence much of the incident sunlight energy is wasted by solar panels, and they can give far higher efficiencies if illuminated with monochromatic light. Therefore another design concept is to split the light into different wavelength ranges and direct the beams onto different cells tuned to those ranges.^[2] This has been projected to be capable of raising efficiency by 50%. The use of infrared photovoltaic cells has also been proposed to increase efficiencies, and perhaps produce power at night.^{[citation needed]}

Sunlight conversion rates (solar panel efficiencies) can vary from 5-18% in commercial production, typically lower than the efficiencies of their cells in isolation. Panels with conversion rates around 18% are in development incorporating innovations such as power generation on the front and back sides.^{[citation needed]} The Energy Density of a solar panel is the efficiency described in terms of peak power output per unit of surface area, commonly expressed in units of Watts per square foot (W/ft2). The energy density of the most efficient mass produced solar panels are over 13 W/ft2.

Source: Wikipedia

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Outdoor Solar Lights

To get the most out of your solar lights, there are a few things you need to take into consideration, such as where you place them, how much shade there is, how well their solar panels are positioned relative to the sun, the effects of the weather and how clean you keep them.

Place your outdoor solar lights in a sunny enough location. This may seem obvious, but outdoor solar lights require enough hours of sun per day so that they are able to recharge their batteries sufficiently. The number of hours of sun that an outdoor solar light requires per day depends on the quality and design of the outdoor solar light, the size and type of the solar panel that is a part of the outdoor solar light, the number and strength of the light bulbs that the outdoor solar light has and the number and type of batteries that it has. An Outdoor solar light with a larger solar panel relative to the light that it produces may shine for a longer time and require fewer hours of direct sunlight.

Carefully consider the potential location of your outdoor solar lights. Look to see if anything might be shading them from direct sunlight. This could include trees, bushes, plants, pillars, posts, buildings, house eaves or overhangs, steps, walls, vehicles, or anything else that blocks direct sunlight from shining on the outdoor solar lights. Look at your potential location for the outdoor solar lights during several times of day and see how much shade there is at different times. If there is too much shade in that spot for too long during the day, then it may be better for you to to select a different location for your outdoor solar lights.

If possible and if it is adjustable, then make sure that the outdoor solar light panel is facing south. Solar spotlights, for example, have an attached solar panel that can be turned toward the sun. If you can adjust the angle of the mini panel, then the panel should be angled at an ideal angle for your geographical location. The idea is to have the panel facing as flat as possible relative to the angle of the sun for as many of the direct sun hours as possible.

Depending on your geographical location, the angle of the sun and the number of hours of direct sunlight will change during the summer and winter. The sun may be less strong, at a lower angle and shine for fewer hours during the winter. On the other hand, there may be fewer leaves on surrounding trees during the winter, which may mean less that is blocking sunshine onto the outdoor solar lights during the winter.

Take the weather into account. Cloud, rain, falling snow and fog all decrease the strength of the sun that reaches your outdoor solar lights’ panels, which affects the ability of your outdoor solar lights to recharge. On a day that has been very cloudy all day, outdoor solar lights will not be able to charge as effectively as they would on a sunny day.

Keep the solar panel on the outdoor solar lights clean. Rain, dust, dirt, ice or snow can accumulate on them. If you check and wipe their solar panel areas off occasionally, then your outdoor solar lights will be able to receive sunshine better and charge more effectively.

If you keep these tips in mind, then you will have a better experience with your outdoor solar lights and you will get more out of them.

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Air to water air source heat pumps

Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP) are becoming an increasingly popular choice for home heating in UK. They can be installed in new homes and just as easily retrofitted into renovation projects. ASHP absorb a small amount of heat from the air and use it to generate high temperatures for heating and hot water. Air source heat pumps are often a practical alternative to Ground Source heat pump as they require no digging or drilling and fewer plumbing connections are used during installation, making them cost effective to install. Any competent person can install one of our units without specialised skills of tools.

The unit of measuring the efficiency of an Air Source Heat Pump is the Coefficient of Performance. This tells you your return on one unit of energy used. A COP of 3 means that for every 1 Kw of energy you put in you get 3 Kw of energy out. The Bristish Standard for measuring COP is EN14511 which measures at an air temperature of 7°C and a target water temperature of 35°C. The main factors which effect the running of a heat pump are the outside air temperature – you get a higher COP on a hot day, and the target temperature – you get a better COP with a lower target.

How much will you save?

According the The Energy Saving Trust the prospective financial and carbon savings from installing an air source heat pump are as follows:

Fuel Displaced	£ Saving per year	CO2 saving per year
Gas	£300	860 Kg
Electricity	£870	6 tonnes
Oil	£580	1.6 tonnes
Solid	£280	5 tonnes

All savings are approximate and are based on an air source heat pump providing 100% of space heating in a detached property.

What options are available?

There are two types of air-source heating systems. Air-to-air systems provide warm air, which is circulated to heat the building. Air-to-water systems heat water to provide heating to a building through radiators or an underfloor system. Eco Airpump supply UK market with full range of EAP air source heat pump. All units including Eco5, Eco7, Eco9.5, Eco13 and Eco18 air source heat pump, swimming pool heat pump and loft heat pump are available.

How Does a heatpump work?

The air source heat pump is a viable heating alternative to conventional heat sources.

In essence an air source heat pump has a motor powered by electricity that delivers more energy than it consumes. For every kilowatt of energy used as electricity, around 4.2 units of heat are delivered to your heat store. The Eco Airpump works by pressurising refrigerant to create a heat output. Heat pumps use similar technology to that employed in domestic refrigerators or freezers, but in reverse. Air source heat pumps use electricity to power the compressor, which forces a refrigerant (R404a) through tiny holes to create heat. The heat is then transferred to your heating system, and it is this cycle which makes air source heat pumps so efficient.

Air source heat pumps use energy freely available in the ambient air and are able to provide heating at air temperatures as low as -25°C. Eco Airpumps use the latest technological advances in both compressor design and system control and this allows the units to provide cheap heat, more efficiently than most other forms of heating.

Air source heat pump are a genuine alternative to ground source heat pumps. Air source heat pump do not require any land or ground works so are considerably more cost effective to install. Leaving the payback time low.

Eco Airpump can be integrated with your system by incorporating a Thermal Store in the installation. The air source heat pump would directly heat the thermal store or buffer tank, with the heating (radiators or under floor) and hot water being taken from that cylinder. With most air source heat pumps backup heating is often needed for air source heat pump systems to be effective because of the cooler UK climate. The Eco air pump is designed to operate at an efficient performance level in Nordic conditions.

The efficiency of air source systems is measured by a coefficient of performance (CoP). Eco Airpumps have full and detailed laboratory reports available for your inspection, which clearly shows every level of performance at every level of temperatures, both air and water as laid out by EN41511 standards. Ecoairpumps are so confident with their pumps performance we do not hide or manipulate any facts or figures

High Efficiency Air Source Heat Pump developed for UK climate

The critical factor of the Eco Airpumps Domestic air source heat pump range is the suitability for the U.K. Climate. Unfortunately our climate is not continual scorching temperatures, we have continual 5 – 10 degrees, which means that the correct components can ensure excellent all year round components. Heat pumps which rely on in line heaters and other back ups clearly are not designed for U.K. conditions.
Eco Airpumps incorporate market leading components such as Copland Scroll compressors and use testing laboratories to continually improve their performances. Different refrigerant gasses perform in different ways. The combination of Eco Airpump R404a gas with the correct compressor and components is the reason the performance makes the range market leaders in performance. The U.K. temperature range is ideally suited to Eco Airpumps and the performance levels of our air source heat pump support this.

Eco Airpump Advantages:

• COP 4.4 (A7/W35)
• 3 Year full warranty
• -25°C Performance Efficiency
• Powder Coating Guarantee
• Stainless Steel Chassis Option
• Lower capital expenditure to achieve energy savings
• No ground works required
• No special tools or plant required

Eco Airpump COP chart:

Efficiency:
The very best boilers on the market operate at around 97% efficiency when installed in optimum circumstances. Due to our advanced heat pump technology our air source heat pumps achieve up to 500% efficiency compare to other heat pump in the market.
With fewer moving parts to go wrong, air source heat pumps have a life expectancy of over 25 years. And with no annual service or maintenance required, ongoing costs can be reduced by as much as 75%. Eco Airpump provide full technical support for air source heat pump range including training. All air source heat pump installation manual and schematics are available to download.

Source: Eco Air Pump

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Air Conditioner Buying Guide

Shopping Tips

If your current air conditioner is more than eight years old, it's time for a new one. Over the life of the product, the amount you'll save in energy bills will more than likely exceed the cost of the new unit.

The following are basic criteria to use when choosing a new system:

• BTUs: The cooling capacity of an air conditioner is measured in British thermal units per hour (Btu/hr). To find the best BTUs needed to cool your room, multiply the square footage of the space by 10 and then add 4,000.

• Energy Star rating: The Environmental Protection Agency's Energy Star ratings indicate that an appliance is at least 10 percent more energy-efficient than the minimum federal standards.

• EER: A room air conditioner's EER, or Energy-Efficiency Ratio, is the ratio of the cooling output divided by the unit's power consumption. The higher the EER, the more efficient the model.

• Anti-Microbial filter? Most room air conditioners come with reusable electrostatic filters, which may be treated with triclosan. If purchasing a unit with an antimicrobial filter, ask the retailer to replace it with an untreated electrostatic filter.

Check if your state energy office or local utility offer rebates and trade-ins of older models to encourage the purchase of energy-efficient units. You could end up saving $75 or more on your purchase.

If you live in a very humid climate, look for models that are good at removing moisture; ask about the rate of water removal (in pints per hour).

At the store, compare the energy consumption and usage costs of one model to another using the yellow "EnergyGuide" label on the product.

Source: National Geographic

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Water Filter Buying Guide

Finding out what's in your water will help determine what kind of filter you will need.

Photograph by Péter Gudella/Shutterstock

Updated by Eliza Barclay

for National Geographic's Green Guide

ShoppingTips

Though U.S. drinking water has been protected under the Safe Drinking Water Act since 1974, experts warn that tap water increasingly does not meet health-safety guidelines.

A recent investigation by The New York Times found that, since 2004, some 62 million people in the U.S. have been exposed to drinking water contaminated with thousands of chemicals—albeit in low concentrations—that are not regulated under federal law.

Of course, the best way to ensure clean and safe drinking water is to protect the source. Watersheds act as natural filters that remove chemicals, pollutants, and sediment. Citizens can also urge Congress and the federal government to update the Safe Drinking Water Act to include and regulate potentially hazardous new chemicals.

In the meantime, many consumers are turning to home water filters for added peace of mind.

The first step in determining whether a water filter might make your tap water cleaner is to find out what’s in your water, and if it contains any dangerous, unregulated chemicals.

If possible, check out your annual water-quality report—also called a consumer-confidence report—from your water supplier. Some reports are available on the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)’s Web site. These reports can be difficult to interpret, so download a guide to reading them at the Campaign for Safe and Affordable Drinking Water’s Web site.

The Environmental Working Group’s “What’s in your water?” tool is another useful mine of information on local water supplies. The nonprofit recommends that most people in the U.S. filter their tap water.

If you decide to purchase a water filter, experts recommend selecting filters certified by the National Sanitation Foundation, which tests products to ensure that they remove what is required by water-filter manufacturers.

The foundation maintains an extensive database searchable by type of water treatment product.

No filter will remove every contaminant, in part because the list of risky chemicals keeps growing. But here are the most common types of filters and the major contaminants they are designed to trap:

1. Carbon filters include countertop pitchers, faucet-mounted models, undersink models (which usually require a permanent connection to an existing pipe), and whole-house or point-of-entry systems (usually installed in the basement or outside). Carbon, a porous material, absorbs impurities as the water passes through. What they remove: Lead, PCBs, chlorine byproducts (chloramines and trihalomethanes), certain parasites, radon, pesticides and herbicides, the gasoline additive MTBE, the dry-cleaning solvent trichloroethylene, some volatile organic compounds, some levels of bacteria (such as Cryptosporidium and Giardia) and a small number of pharmaceuticals.
2. Reverse-osmosis systems push water through a semipermeable membrane, which acts as an extremely fine filter. They're often used in conjunction with carbon filters. However, these systems waste 4 to 9 gallons (15 to 34 liters) of water for every gallon (3.8 liters) filtered. What they remove: Chemicals carbon filters may miss, including perchlorate, sulfates, fluoride, industrial chemicals, heavy metals (including lead), chlorine byproducts, chlorides (which make water taste salty), and pharmaceuticals.
3. Ultraviolet light units disinfect water, killing bacteria. Countertop units can be found for under U.S. $100, but most whole-house units cost $700 and upward. What they remove: Bacteria. Experts recommend using them with carbon filters to remove other contaminants.
4. Distillers, probably the least practical home method, boil and condense water. While countertop units are available, distillers use lots of electricity, generate excess heat, and require regular cleaning. Explore filters or other alternatives to remove your contaminants, or, in a pinch, buy distilled water. What they remove: Heavy metals (including lead), particles, total dissolved solids, microbes, fluoride, lead, and mercury.

Source: National Geographic

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Solar Charger Buying Guide

Shopping Tips

There are several types of photovoltaic, or PV, cells available that power small devices such as calculators, phones, music players, computers, and lights.

The PV cell that has been used for years in calculators and watches is made from a thin layer of silicon on top of any number of surfaces that conduct electricity, and is called an amorphous silicon cell. These cells convert about 12 percent of available solar energy into electricity, providing only small amounts of power.

The most common type of PV cell is the crystalline silicon cell, which is made from thin wafers of silicon either sliced off a single crystal or made of many crystals and impregnated with other elements that help the cell generate and conduct electricity. These cells approach 20 percent efficiency.

Other types of PV cells include thin-film cells, which can be printed onto flexible backings and integrated into clothing, cells made from organic materials, and combinations of cell types to increase efficiency to almost 40 percent.

• Batteries: Most devices use solar panels to charge an internal battery, which is used to charge another device, such as a phone. There are several types of rechargeable batteries, each with its own limitations. Nickel-cadmium (NiCd) batteries, the earliest version of rechargeable batteries, “remember” their ability to hold a charge, which means they must be fully discharged before they can recharge all the way. They also lose their charge over time in storage, especially in warmer weather. Nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) batteries have similar limitations but don’t lose their charge quite as fast. Lithium ion and lithium polymer batteries are lighter and can hold more energy and hold a charge for a longer time, but are susceptible to overheating and still need to be replaced after a certain number of charging cycles.

  Rechargeable batteries can contain toxic cadmium, lead, and lithium. A law mandating that these batteries be recycled, and that mercury in batteries be phased out, has been in effect in the U.S. since 1996. There are many recycling programs that reclaim the battery materials and use them to manufacture more batteries.

• Surface Area, Charging Time, and Portability The amount of electricity a solar panel generates depends on several factors: the surface area, the efficiency of the cells, and the quality of the sunlight. The angle of the panel toward the sun, cloud cover, and time of year all have an effect on the quality of the sunlight that reaches the panel. Bright sunlight at a 90 degree angle to the panel will allow the cells to convert the most light into electricity and charge devices (or the internal battery) the quickest.

  The surface area has an impact on how portable the device is. Chargers range from pocket-sized, which aren’t much bigger than the devices they’re designed to charge, to multiple square feet that fold or roll up.

• Multiple Devices: Many chargers work for multiple devices, but you may have to buy the right adapters. Pay attention to the wattage rating, which affects which devices you can charge. A small, handheld charger may not be able to charge a laptop—you may need a large panel with more surface area to charge larger devices.

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